Even though they grow the same grape variety, red Burgundy and California Pinot Noir often produce very different wines.
While differences may abound between the respective regions, winemakers are all unique, and may or may not align exactly with the stylistic preferences of their region.
In this article we’ll examine some of the key differences between red Burgundy and California Pinot Noir, starting from the winemaking philosophies through to the differences in climate, and finally considering how these two are translated into differences in taste.
Different Climates
On the whole, Burgundy is cooler, cloudier, and more temperate than warm and sunny California.
More sun means riper grapes, and this translates to a higher sugar content, more prominent ripe fruit flavors, and darker grape skins. These characteristics translate to a higher alcohol content, often exceeding 13.5%, and bold, juicy, fruit-forward wines.
Burgundy’s more mild climate, on the other hand, results in a more crisp and refreshing wine, with lighter tannins, lower alcohol and more delicate, complex flavors of fruit. The milder fruit flavors allow Burgundy’s signature savory aromas of rich earth, mushroom, and tobacco to emerge from the grapes, notes often hidden by the intense jamminess of California grown fruit.
Different Philosophies
In terms of winemaking philosophy, there are two key divisions between Burgundy and California, characteristic of the differences between Old World and New World wines.
The first is the winemaker’s focus.
Wines in Burgundy are classified by region. Rather than emphasizing the flavors of a particular grape variety, Burgundian winemakers place their emphasis on terroir, the unique environmental and climatic characteristics of their particular vineyard. This approach is a perfect complement to the delicate Pinot Noir, a grape highly expressive of the region in which it’s grown - unless those nuances are hidden by an overabundance of fruit, sugars and alcohol.
In California, as in the rest of the states, wines are more typically categorized by grape, not by region. The emphasis is on the fruit rather than the particularities of terroir, a distinction that filters down into the general fruit-forward philosophy of California wineries. Of course, the fruit-forward focus may be more a result of warmer weather and riper fruit than a particular choice on the part of the winemaker. In addition, most wines are designed to be consumed shortly after bottling, as opposed to the more traditional Burgundian approach of creating wines which improve when allowed time to rest in a cellar.
The second is the differing emphasis on tradition.
As we note in our article on the history of the Burgundy wine region, people have been making wine in Burgundy for thousands of years - lots of time for the successive custodians of Burgundy’s vineyards to impart their knowledge and techniques down through the generations. Winemakers have for the most part figured out what works and what doesn’t to produce the best possible Pinot Noir, resulting in a significant emphasis on tradition.
So rather than tinker with their fundamental approach, Burgundy winemakers are selectively modernizing their operations to further improve the quality and consistency of their wine, and to improve the environmental sustainability of their operations.
In California, winemaking only goes back to the late 1800s, and was effectively reset by prohibition. Winemakers aren’t bound to any particular tradition, and often make use of all the latest technologies to vinify their grapes. While this leads to undeniably good wine, it can also result in a degree of ‘sameness’ as a result of their fruit-focus and uniform winemaking techniques. Without the guide rails of a deeply embedded winemaking tradition, there’s also the risk that other factors, like market preferences and international economic forces - might take the lead in determining what wines they produce.
Different Wines
Naturally, the above differences result in different wines, even if winemakers are using the same grape.
California Pinot Noir is characterized by higher alcohol, lower acidity, with bold and jammy purple and black fruit flavors. As American oak is more porous, California Pinot Noir (whose winemakers naturally employ less French oak barrels) will also tend towards slightly more prominent oak flavors. Due to riper fruit, the fruit focus, and similarities in winemaking techniques, California Pinot Noirs are likely to display a higher degree of homogeneity.
Burgundy red wine is characterized by a greater balance between crunchy, red fruit flavors and rich earthy aromas. Burgundy wines have a more refreshing acidity, grippier tannins, and a smoky minerality as a result of the limestone ubiquitous in the Burgundian terroir. A more even balance in flavors results in wine with more nuance and complexity, than their juicier, more flamboyant Californian counterparts.
The Final Tally
While California Pinot Noir is big, bold, and juicy, Burgundy leans more into freshness, elegance, and complexity. (Incidentally, a characteristic that results in fantastic aging potential.).
Much of these differences come from the differing climates, but stylistic preference plays a significant role as well. There are several interventions available to winemakers while turning grapes into wine, and in many ways the differences are characteristic of differing philosophies about what to emphasize in their wine.
But as we said in the introduction, it can be easy to paint both the regions with a broad brush. Every winemaker is unique, and while regional trends can be distinguished, they are by no means determinative.
At the end of the day, the best way to tell the difference between red Burgundy and California Pinot Noir is - you guessed it - to try them both yourself!